Riding Giants (2004) Viewer rating, out of 5 bars of wax

An insider's look at the origins of surfing, the colorful and subversive birth of surf culture, and the mythology and lure of the "big wave." This passionate and fluid film is the first authentic history of surfing from its humble Hawaiian beginnings to the big business it became to the still rebellious universe it inhabits today. A study in individuality and freedom, the pursuit and techniques of pure kinetic pleasure, and the risk taking and attitudes that characterize its leading figures. Closely chronicling the sometimes-life-and-death drama that big-wave riding entails, the film is a visual thrill ride. But also revealed is the realization that the man versus nature dialectic never ends; the search for the ultimate wave and the spiritual pinnacle can only be pursued but never reached.

Starring: Greg Noll, Jeff Clark, Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner, Titus Kinimaka, Laird Hamilton, Brian Keaulana

Directed by: Stacy Peralta

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by pedro escamoso

in viewing this film i realized its message wasnt meant as a hooter of a view but something more scholarly. greg noll broke new ground on earth and is a living legend, and is captured beautifully and naturally in his habitat, comfortable and honest.


the pat curren footage is choice and again is vintage righteous. to hear from these cats is like having moses hear the ten commandments come from the clouds. this is anohe rliving legend speaking openly and letting us all in on the secret of how the surfing world works. the laird stuff is as ridiculous as anything ridiculous that laird does. the history takes you right from the discovery of balls big enough to try and attack waimea bay back in the day through mavericks and into the modern age. it fills a nice gap in surf culture history and is a must see if you ever thought about learning to surf, drinking a cold pacifico, or eating a fish taco.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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