insider's look at the origins of surfing, the colorful
and subversive birth of surf culture, and the mythology
and lure of the "big wave." This passionate
and fluid film is the first authentic history of surfing
from its humble Hawaiian beginnings to the big business
it became to the still rebellious universe it inhabits
today. A study in individuality and freedom, the pursuit
and techniques of pure kinetic pleasure, and the risk
taking and attitudes that characterize its leading figures.
Closely chronicling the sometimes-life-and-death drama
that big-wave riding entails, the film is a visual thrill
ride. But also revealed is the realization that the
man versus nature dialectic never ends; the search for
the ultimate wave and the spiritual pinnacle can only
be pursued but never reached.
Greg Noll, Jeff Clark, Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner,
Titus Kinimaka, Laird Hamilton, Brian Keaulana
by: Stacy Peralta
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1 - 5 (1 being shyte - 5 being gnarly awesome)