Board- 9'6" Bruce Jones Modern Long Board (epoxy),
9'6" Doyle Sponge board
What got you started surfing- I've been a certified
scuba diver for 24 years, an open ocean swimmer for 10 years
and underwater hockey player for 6 years. I promised
myself I'd learn to surf before I turned 40. At age 39, I
had the opportunity and learned off Ocean Park with Mary Setterholm
& Bobby Wardlow of Surf Academy.
keeps you surfing- The stoke. There's nothing more
satisfying than running down the line with a nice long right!!!
I skip the traffic by getting up early to do dawn patrol.
Most memorable surf- A REALLY big day at Sunset in
January 2004. Pulling up to the spot at 7am we had surf
double overhead with the dolphin's leaping out of faces.
I caught one wave where I was in the barrel standing and the
ride was silent.
Dream surf trip, whether you've already taken it, or dream
of going- Maui, Costa Rica
warn water with nothing
else to do but surf.
Favorite break- Sunset for the slow long line (&
when uncrowded), Bolsa Chica (marker 20) for the vibe and
larger faster break. Ocean Park (tower 26) also
for the vibe, C-Street, San Eljio S.B.
How has surfing changed you- It has made me a less
dependable employee; but one who's more relaxed and effective.
I LOVE to pass on the joy of surfing!
What do you do when there are no waves- Whine!
Ocean swim, run, work, whine some more
are you trying to do or learn to raise your level of surfing-
Try to get out as much as possible; daily when possible.
Practice, practice, practice
Favorite surfers- Sunset Crew: Ken, Carolyn, Joe, Sean,
Pete, Heike, Darr, Janet
. OP Crew: John, Mary, Bobby,
Julio, Mel, Morrisa, Jennifer, Patty, Steve B., Liza, Sofi-Marie
Bolsa Crew: Bruce, John, Hollywood, Dom
Surfing pet peeve- Agrow sufers, those who drop in
without acknowledging what's going on, bitchy, uptight, negative
Ideal surf conditions- dawn patrol, glassy with shoulder
high to head high, great shape with 6 or so friends
encouraging each other into the sets. Marine life encounters.
Anything to add- Carolyn thank you for this site and
the positive vibe you and the crew project at Sunset.
Thanks to Ken for making me welcome in the line up when I
was more of a Barney. A good DVD to have along
with traveling is "Step Into Liquid". It always
makes me feel happy when I'm land locked in the middle of