Name- Matt B.
Stance- Regular (sometimes Pig Dog, sometimes Stink
Board- Main board is a 6'4" Fish; 9' CC (nose)
Rider from Bruce Grant on the way--I'm stoked!
What got you started surfing- I moved to California
in '94 and didn't learn then for fear that it was all I would
ever want to do. 2 1/2 years later, John, the first surfer
I ever really knew, died at age 29 (no it wasn't from surfing!),
and I realized that if I didn't learn soon, I probably never
would, so...now it's the only thing I ever want to do...
keeps you surfing- It is the most fun thing I do...is
Most memorable surf- Superbowl Sunday '98. San Onofre
was pretty much double overhead and mostly closed out--the
biggest I've ever seen it there. My friend Rob and I were
hung over and late getting down there, it took 10 minutes
to get outside, and I was so freaked out by the size, I didn't
even catch a wave. Rob did. Afterward, we ate pancakes at
Tommy's Family Restaurant in San Clemente, and the waitress
was a pretty strawberry blond named Kelly. How's that for
Dream surf trip, whether you've already taken it, or dream
of going- I want to go back to France in the late summer
and surf Hossegor, Anglet, Guethary, and also Mundaka in Spain
on a nice healthy swell. The waves are fun, the Cote d'Basque
is beautiful, the food and wine are fantastic, the people
are nice, and even the ugly girls are good looking.
Favorite break- LA: Zeros on a huge south swell, and
another spot I can't mention. VENTURA: Gotta be Hollywood-by-the-Sea
SLO: Cadiz -- not the greatest break, but the only place I
know where you walk across a cow pasture to get there. SD:
Blacks Beach. Mex: uncrowded San Miguel (yeah, right!)
How has surfing changed you- I'm happier, more confident,
and on a day where I've had a really fun session, everything
else is easy. I also know how lucky I am to be able able to
do this...so I'm a more grateful, mellow person.
What do you do when there are no waves- Besides pray
for swell? I bicycle, read, listen to music, hike, and take
are you trying to do or learn to raise your level of surfing-
Surf every day I can, and go even when I know I might not
make the drop...
Favorite surfers- Rob (best buddy), Joe (pushes me
and snakes me), Carolyn (for making such a cool site and letting
me spout off), Veena (will be when she's no longer a kook-ha!),
Bruce Grant (surfer and super shaper), Kirk and Conan (the
Nordic Twins), Scott (though I think he got married and quit)
Heather S. (she's truly surf crazy!), my neighbor Stuart (may
be the nicest man in the world), Marissa (surfing lawyer),
Jessica and Alan (Surfrider Vounteers extraordinaire), Laura
(honorary--she can't even swim!), Rennie Yater (yes I have
met him), Randy Wright (he's ridiculously good and totally
unafraid), Josh the Preacher (rules Drainpipes and Zuma),
and John (R.I.P.).
Surfing pet peeve- Snakes of course; also spongers
in my way (they are so vulnerable down in that water, I fear
for them!); dudes who ask me for the time (get a g*dd*mn watch!)
Ideal surf conditions- Slightly overhead, semi-hollow
beachbreak that seems like reef surf because the rides are
Anything to add- Carolyn rules?