Stance- regular footed
Board- 9'6" noserider, extra thick
What got you started surfing- Always thought surfing
was a cool sport in theory while growing up inland in a no-surf
area. Tried it for the first time at the age of 22 after moving
out to the west coast and immediately became addicted.
keeps you surfing- The constant challenge of trying to
improve, learn new tricks, successfully ride different board
types, and catch bigger waves. There is always something more
to learn and accomplish with this sport. Plus it is so rewarding
- a good wave is instant gratification.
Most memorable surf- One morning at Malibu with only
a few folks out and the waves were just holding our boards
up like magic. Everyone was getting effortless noserides....or
did I dream that?
Dream surf trip, whether you've already taken it, or dream
of going- I dream about Hawaii and maybe living there
someday. I also dream about finding some place like in Mexico
where there's only one or two people out (because surfing
alone can feela bit creepy) and the waves are peeling in perfect
sets; a right point break that's glassy 3-4 foot.
Favorite break- Sunset, Malibu, C-street
How has surfing changed you- Surfing has given me somthing
to look forward to and dream about at night and it gets my
butt off the couch almost every day.
What do you do when there are no waves- I get depressed.
sometimes I do home improvement projects or write music as
a creative outlet.
are you trying to do or learn to raise your level of surfing-
Go out surfing as much as possible, try a variety of boards
& breaks, learn about board design, read books about surf
Favorite surfers- Ones who treat fellow surfers with
respect no matter how good of a surfer they are. I once saw
a semi-pro who had really impressive surfing skills, but really
rude etticate. I now don't think of that individual as a good
surfer because they lacked one important quality: good sportsmanship.
Surfing pet peeve- People who drop in on you after
you've made it a point to NOT drop in on them. That's down
right disrespectful. Remember the golden rule.
Ideal surf conditions- Glassy, sunshine, no wind, 2-5
feet, slow rolling lines, right point break, a few friendly
people out who are all stoked to have found these great conditions!
Anything to add- Surfing as a sport or a lifestyle
is a real treasure that I feel so fortunate to have discovered
in my life.