Name- Darr (Goo's mom)
Stance- Regular foot, but in a goofy fashion.
Board- My "baby" is my Hunt 9'8" noserider.
You may go to www.huntcustoms.com
to see pics. I highly recommend having Gregg Hunt shape your
next board. If you are into the traditional style of longboarding,
What got you started surfing-Back in 1987, I wanted
to take that next step beyond just watching surfers and actually
try it. The day I was going to learn, I had an encounter with
a shark who was a little too close for my liking. I paddled
in and that was it, until twelve years later, when I decided
to overcome my fear of sharks and get back into the water.
The rest is history. Now I'm hooked.
keeps you surfing- The feeling I get when I have a real
connection with the energy of a wave and the water surrounding
me. Everything else in life distracts me and makes it hard
to focus. Surfing, to me, is a form of meditation, a tool
for obtaining a closer connection with the universe. Plus,
their is this feeling, a sort of an obsession to get back
out there and surf that next wave with more confidence, grace
Most memorable surf- A big day at Sunset (Pacific Palisades).
Feeling the power of the water, adrenalin in high gear, yet
a feeling of comfort at my home break.
Dream surf trip, whether you've already taken it, or dream
of going- Costa Rica...haven't gone yet. Wingnut's travel
video put me in fantasy mode.
Favorite break- Can't make up my mind. I love the PV
Cove, I love Sunset (Pacific Palisades) when it breaks big,
and I love San Onofre for it's unique vibe. Malibu is one
of the most beautifully formed waves I've ever surfed, but
the crowds frustrate me so!!
How has surfing changed you- Surfing has not only sharpened
my physical reflexes, but has also sharpened and expanded
my spiritual thought forms. It has also allowed me to just
go out and play in an environment which I feel really comfortable.
What do you do when there are no waves- Hang out with
my "land buddies" and my dog "Goo", watch
surf videos and live vicariously through them (hee hee).
are you trying to do or learn to raise your level of surfing-
Most likely moving to Hawaii...those waves scare the living
daylights out of me!!.
Favorite surfers- Joel Tudor & Wingnut (and all
Surfing pet peeve- Guys at Malibu coming down the line
yelling "hooo", then those same guys dropping in
on you when you're trying to catch at least one measly little
wave. Didn't their mommys teach them how to share???.
Ideal surf conditions- Warm, unpolluted water, light
off-shore breeze, 3-5 Ft. glassy waves.
Anything to add- Thank you Carolyn for such a cool