Board- Stuart 9'0" Hydro, 9"6' Bruce Jones Retro Nose Rider, Robert
Weiner 6'8 thruster and 6'6 fish, Infinity Stand-up (only for flat days)
What got you started surfing- My oldest son who was 13 at the time
re-newed my love for it.
What keeps you surfing- Me, my kids, great times, meeting new people and
making new friends every time I go out, and my long time surf buddy, Guy
(no, not Buddy Guy the musician).
Most memorable surf- The secret L spot on a big south swell in 2007 we
dropped in on an overhead off the main reef and rode that monster over a
quarter mile to the houses by the stair access...the whole time I was
backside moving up and down that wave and I could lean in with my
shoulder or my head at any point and look inside that wave....amazing.
Dream surf trip, whether you've already taken it, or dream of going- Any
reef or point location in the south or western pacific where the water
is over 75 degrees with my friends and kids to share the experience.
Favorite break- Little Dume on a nice South early in the morning, Sunset
strictly for the vibe of good folks.
How has surfing changed you- It has taught me how to live in the present
and become more in touch with my self.
What do you do when there are no waves- Stand up paddle, free dive,
scuba. I love the ocean.
What are you trying to do or learn to raise your level of surfing- weekdays when its empty I short board to keep sharp, weekends I longboard and work on my steps and other tricks to have fun with
Favorite surfers- Rory Russell (70s Back-to-Back Pipe Champion for those of you too young
too know and my friend who watched me surf Kahaloo and named a rock after me to memorialize
the occasion). Micki Dora (liked his rebel style), Garcia (because he still does it even now) and Laird
(because this genuine stoke sharing guy is one of the friendliest guys in the water and will let you
drop in and share a wave and smile the whole time).
Surfing pet peeve- People who think they are too cool or good to share waves. Truth is,
if your really good, it doesn't matter if there is someone else dropping in..you know what I mean...)
Ideal surf conditions- Out with my friends and kids, Saturday Morning, warm September day,
Moderate Santa Ana wind, Water is 70 plus degrees, deep groundswell out of the South West..
you know the rest......
Anything to add- I'm new to the site, but this seems to be a really fine website put up by
someone with a really soul who loves surfing and life. Thank you very much.